A Photographic Journey with Friends
Portugal and it´s Lusitanos have a remarkable way of leading us into endless unexpected but always satisfying Adventures. This one to Ducal palace and the castle in Vila Vicosa was no exception.
A Journey of Inner Discovery
When I think of Equestrian Heritage it evokes romantic childhood dreams of ladies in fine dresses, knights in shinning armor, elegant carriages, white stallions, long manes and flowing tails. Great horses in harness turning the heavy soil or galloping across early morning dew soaked meadows in the pursuit of the wiley fox. Indeed equestrian heritage has always fascinated me. Now living in Portugal I´ve found myself immersed in a culture that has romance at it´s heart, which is found intrinsically intertwined all through the traditions, the art, culture, clothing, fairs and celebrations.
Taking Hold of my Soul
The country and it´s heritage has subtly crept into my soul, moved me to change many things about myself and discover who I truly am. My work, my passion takes me all around the country visiting castles, palaces, manor houses
equestrian centres, farms large and small. During all this I never for a moment imaged that I would be writing articles and having the wonderful opportunities I now have. I´m internally grateful. But my journey has not been alone, Lena Saugen a true and wonderful companion has traveled much of the road with me and without her many adventures would certainly not have happened.
Lusitanos Never Let You Down
This summer we completed a project that began last year as just a seed of an idea. It all started when talking with Michaela Kleba owner of the magnificent stud farm Coudelaria Vila Viçosa. We were planning a photo shoot and video for their farm. The stud farm is named after the town in which it is located and we wanted to put the elegant stallions into the beautiful town creating a closer connection, so we photographed them in front of the utterly splendid Ducal Palace.
It proved to be a fabulous and inspiring experience. As I am sure you are aware when planting a seed, nurturing it from the outset, it cannot fail to grow and with that growth it brings forth blossoming opportunities. This summer with the very kind permission of the Director of the Palace Dr.Maria we revisited this time to enter the Castle and the Palace.
A Blissful Day
The day began at the small but embossing castle which over looks the town. Pedro, the stud farm manager told us he had an ambition to photograph a horse on the castle drawbridge! A narrow bridge which expands over a very deep, now dry moat. The bridge is slatted thick wood with only chains on the sides and it moves a bit, it has to be said we were a little doubtful at the idea.
How could we expect such walk of faith from a horse even if it is a Lusitano. It was only Pedro´s unfaltering confidence that convinced us to agree and so he proved it. Walking with Casanova beside him there was not a moment´s hesitation as they crossed the bridge. Casanova demonstrated to us once again the remarkable courage, trust and faith these horses have. He posed on the bridge with the professionalism of a top model. Two leisurely hours passed as Lena photographed the bridge, the tunnels and at the magnificent arched castle entrance looking down to the town.
Image Casnova on Draw Bridge by Teresa Burton.
The castle is located in the civil parish of Nossa Senhora da Conceição e São Bartolomeu.
It was reconstructed in the 17th century due to the War of Restoration of the Portuguese Independence. Looking west, the Porta de Evora, is one of the five entrance gates built into the walls first raised by King Dinis in the Middle Ages, the gate dominates the wide avenue
leading to the fortified town.
What a View!
This is a great view point to enjoy a fabulous town vista. This castle is one of the most complete and updated Castles in Portugal with excellent very well preserved archeology. Some of the impressive walls extend to 60ms high. The views from the walkways at the top are fabulous. Inside there´s a hunting museum exhibiting the collection from King Charles 1. I do however warn you that the exhibition is not for the faint hearted it can even be considered shocking with the excessive and blatant killing of animals. It is, however, an impressive exhibition of African and European animals, stuffed and exhibited in various manners. The elephant skull with tusks, the extremely large ivory
tusks are things you do not normally see.
There is another small museum that has historical artifacts from the region including roman and prehistoric items you will see amazing incised slate panels from 2-3000 BC.
Image – Miguel with Casanova on the castle drawbridge by Teresa Burton
Ducal Palace
Ducal Palace is located in the civil parish of Nossa Senhora da Conceição, in the municipality of Vila Viçosa, which is in the Portuguese Alentejo.
It was, for centuries, the seat of House of Braganza, one of the most important noble houses in Portugal: it became the ruling house of the Kingdom of Portugal after 1640, until King Manuel II, titular head of the family, was deposed in the 5 October 1910 Revolution that brought a Republican government.
Image – Justo with Miguel in the Royal Stables
The elegant royal stables are now home to an impressive collection of coaches, carriages and hunting carts, even the post carriage. Many are from the 18th century. It´s really worth seeing and you can see the gala carriages from the 19th and 20th centuries. They are beautifully preserved and not to be missed is the amazing post coach, and the hunting and camping carriages.
Ducal Palace
Later, after a quick lunch we arrived at Ducal Palace. The impressively grand palace is owned by the house of Braganza, It´s a stunning example of Portuguese architecture. Built in the Mannerist style it has a 110 metre facade covered in marble from the region the over all effect is majestic in soft pink, cream and even appears pale blue.
The Elegance
Inside there are more than 50 rooms most open to the public. On visiting you will find it´s a gold mine of historic artifacts and fascinating information on the region´s history, the Braganza family and Portuguese adventures. Everything is presented is a very accessible and attractive way. There are outstanding collections of paintings, sculptures, furniture, tapestries, ceramics and jewellery, including the biggest private collection of Chinese porcelain in the Iberian Peninsula.
Look out for the Armory, exhibition with it´s extensive arms collection of the Braganza Dynasty and in the stables you will find a magnificent collection of coaches and carriages which belong to the royal family, including gala vehicles from the 19th and 20th centuries. It was in these wonderful elegant stables we brought the stallions bringing a little equestrian life back.
In the late afternoon the light, ambiance and energy was just perfect, we all basked in the special atmosphere and felt so lucky to be there. At one time there were many horses in the stables which consist of three long houses with beautiful high ceramic and wood pitched ceilings. There was the main Royal stable where all the best horses were kept, the other two stable barns was where the working and carriage horses were found. The Royal horses were for leisure riding, classical displays, hunting and the royal carriages, mostly they were from the Alter Real stud farm. In addition to the stables there is an indoor and outdoor picadeiro both although not in use today can easily be recovered.
Dr.Maria confided in us that there is a dream, an ambition in the air
she wants to bring the stables back to life with horse shows and traditional displays for visitors. I for one hope this will happen, I have no doubt it will be magical and will transport anyone watching back in time.
After the stables we moved to the wonderful box hedge gardens at the centre of the palace. The topiary hedges are immaculately manicured lining a maze of pathways leading to fountains, sculptures and granite seats – you can imagine fine ladies once sat in private conversation. Or the king strolled along the paths dreaming his new projects, entertainments and hunting escapades in the Tapada Real (royal hunting grounds).
The Tapada Real
is located very close by and was once the largest natural walled space in Portugal, rich fauna and flora. Still today you can see the deer sitting under the expansive ancient oak trees. Lena had particularly wanted to photograph her muse stallion here the pure white Casanova, whom she has enjoyed a special photographic connection with for several years. Having wowed us at the castle he continued to give that little bit extra in the gardens especially as he walked straight up to the top of some beautiful marble curved steps, he ascended like he had being doing it all his life. We were told the last time an official photograph was taken there it was the Royal family and no horse was in the image. Well Casanova is royalty in our eyes. The photograph of the Royal family in the same place can be seen in the Palace. All in all it was a perfect fews days, one never to be forgotten. and always treasured.
I extend a huge thanks to
Dr.Maria de Jesus Monge director of Fundação da Casa de Bragança at the Ducal Palace and Castle of Vila Viçosa for her support and enthusiasm. Lena Saugen for her amazing work, it never ceases to thrill! I cannot wait for further adventures with her. Coudelaria Vila Viçosa – for their energy, confidence, wonderful hospitality and of course their stunning Lusitanos. Fernando Lusitanos Pinho for his beautiful stallion. Special hug to Casanova who has actually been the ambassador of this journey and Lena´s muse.
Text by Teresa Burton www.lusitanohorsefinder.com Images by Lena Saugen Photography
ART PHOTOGRAPHY BOOK
Lena´s journey with Casanova. To order your copy you will find all the detail in our online shop. Visit Shop
To see inside the book click on image
EQUESTRIAN HERITAGE TOURS
Consider putting an Equestrian Heritage Tour on your ´Must Do in this Life´list! Why not take an opportunity just once to immerse yourself in the horses, culture, history, foods and wines of Portugal, I can assure you, you will not regret it. There is no doubt it feeds the soul and ignites your imagination. If you would like us to arrange a tour for you with your family and or friends then get in touch, we are always happy to help.
EQUESTRIAN HERITAGE TOURS
If you want a place to stay in Vila-Vicosa check out the Pousada see details at the bottom of this page.
A great place to stay and truly enjoy Portuguese elegance and heritage is the Pousada Convento de Vila Viçosa
Formerly a convent, this hotel near the historical village of Vila Viçosa is set in lush, landscaped gardens. It has an outdoor swimming pool, a spacious terrace and a restaurant.It is located right beside Ducal Palace.
Amazing Ceilings!
The elegant rooms at the Pousada Convento de Vila Viçosa are decorated in warm colours. They have wooden furniture, cable TV and a marble bathroom with a bath tub. Around the wonderful central courtyard there are arches and many have wall murals in soft colours and wonderful old tiles. There´s spectacular entrance room with curved ceilings painted with floral scenes. It served as a reception room and at one time when it was still a convent people came with babies they could not look after and handed them to the Nuns via a wooden rotating hatch.
Guests can enjoy meals at the restaurant, which serves authentic local cuisine and international wines.
The lounge bar offers a casual atmosphere and serves light snacks and refreshing drinks.
The Pousada Convento de Vila Viçosa’s outdoor swimming pool is surrounded by sun loungers and parasols. The spacious terrace is ideal for sunbathing.
The hotel is 1 km from Vila Viçosa Station, and offers free parking on site.
See images